The sight of smoke rising from fires lit by Native Americans hunting along the hills above San Pedro Bay inspired Portuguese explorer Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo to name the area Bahía de los Fumos, or “Bay of Smokes.”
On October 8, 1542, Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo described the bay in his log as “an excellent harbor” surrounded by “many plains and groves of trees.” At the time, the indented coastline was little more than marshy lowlands. Though his expedition never came ashore during the brief visit, they did encounter a group of Gabrielinos in a canoe, who spoke of other white men inland—likely survivors from Coronado’s ill-fated journey. Over the following century, European explorers occasionally sailed past the Palos Verdes Peninsula, their towering ships inspiring local tribes to speak of the eerie “great houses on the sea.”
The Palos Verdes Peninsula in Los Angeles County is easily one of the most unforgettable places I’ve ever explored. With its lush, terraced hillsides crowned by elegant, exotic estates and a dramatic bluff-lined coastline that feels more European than Californian, it stands apart from the typical Southern California beach scene. Its stunning natural beauty and rich resources have drawn the attention of explorers, settlers, and dreamers for centuries—each generation rediscovering its allure anew.
Around 1810, Juan Jose Sepulveda was given permission to graze cattle on part of the land that would later become known as Rancho Palos Verdes. In 1846, the 31,629-acre expanse—translated as “Ranch of the Green Sticks”—was officially granted to his heirs, marking the beginning of its formal history under that name.
In the 1850s, Portuguese Bend became one of eleven whaling outposts along the California coast, established under the leadership of Captain C.M. Scammon. The crew—made up largely of friendly, hard-living Portuguese sailors—left such a lasting mark on the area that the bend was eventually named in their honor.
During my visit to the hidden gem of Palos Verdes, I made a stop at Abalone Cove Shoreline Park. The drive there felt like a never-ending roller coaster—winding, steep, and at times a little nerve-wracking. I couldn’t help but worry about the possibility of a sudden landslide, especially knowing how close this is to the infamous Sunken City (but that’s a story for another time).
This 64-acre reserve is a designated state ecological preserve, offering something for every kind of explorer. Whether you’re looking to relax on the beach or take a more adventurous route—like swimming across the channels to explore hidden sea caves—there’s plenty to enjoy. Parking is easy to find thanks to the large lot, and it’s just $5 per car. (I parked free up the road, near the Lloyd’ Wright’s serene Wayfarers Chapel)
There are a wide variety of trails to choose from, an abundance of tide pools full of sea life and scenic bluff-top viewing areas. The sight of the cave, even from the bluffs 200’ up, is available only to walkers/hikers and CANNOT be seen while driving. The ocean water washes through the cave quite dramatically, especially at higher tides. At low tides you can walk around the cave (not through it) to get to tide pool areas.
Regular shoes will get you comfortably to the bluff-top viewing area, but if you’re wearing hiking boots, consider taking one of the trails that lead down to the sea cave for a closer look. (See photo below.) While there is a small stretch of sand, most of the beach is covered in rocks, so sturdy footwear is a plus.
If you dream of traveling to Big Sur, but don’t want to load the mileage on your car, here’s your consolation prize: a local getaway to sweeping ocean vistas, towering craggy cliffs, and churning teal seas via a six-mile round trip from the top of Palos Verdes’ Portuguese Bend Reserve
The only free and legal parking options are approximately 1.1 miles from the site, so be prepared for a bit of a walk. Luckily, it’s a scenic stroll along Palos Verdes Drive South—and let’s be honest, the extra steps will probably do you good.
This park was amazing, and if you’re in the area, it’s definitely worth a visit. It was amazing how close Catalina Island appeared—almost close enough to swim to.
Wander Woman 